Hand kneading high hydration % doughs

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Today I did my first high hydration % dough, as I made Peter Reinhard's pain ancienne. This is about 80% water to flour... He says you are better off using a stand mixer, and kind of leaves it at that aside from the same explanation for kneading dough that he gives for the regular French bread. This dough however was a totally different animal! Weighing it out carefully, it hardly resembled the 70% French bread I've made several times... Very sticky and pretty much UN knead able. I just did my best for about 6 minutes by flouring my hands constantly, then threw it in the fridge. Am I doing it wrong or is the gluten going to develop itself through autolysis or something? I love rustic breads with large crumb so I can see myself running into this problem frequently... And I do have a stand mixer its just 8000 miles away, so I'm not going to buy another one.

I've been faced with similar sticky messes when I knead by hand. I've had the best results with a rough mix (dough will still be shaggy) then an autolyse of 30min to 1hour. It's really a different beast after the autolyse. Then continue with stretch and folds to build the gluten. Working these high hydration doughs by hand really takes a different technique and unfortunatley more time, since you need to hand around to do the stretch and folds.

This is the most helpful technique. I'm traveling and was making a high-hydration dough designed for bread mixer and I don't have a bread mixer or bench scraper. I tried everything, vigorous stirring, Reinhardt's bare-hands technique for rustic doughs, even Carla Bartolucci's einkorn stretch-and-folds. Only the slap-fold method worked. This is just an amazing technique to have under one's belt anyway, thanks for educating me!

Rubaud's method is basically slap-and-fold in a bowl, which works pretty well.  There are plenty of videos, here is one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDDnm0OiBpE

High hydration doughs seem to respond well to additional folding during bulk fermentation.  I make Hamelman's Workday 100% Whole Wheat which starts at 80% hydration; he says something like if your baking style supports higher hydration, go right ahead.  So what I do for an 85% hydration dough is:

  • 5 minutes in the mixer
  • Stretch-and-folds in the mixer bowl (you could substitute Rubaud for both of these)
  • At 30 minutes, I do more stretch-and-folds
  • At 60 minutes I do some coil folds
  • At 90 minutes I do a lamination fold and work in the walnuts for my wife